This week we’ve added a new Vouvray, the François Pinon “Cuvée Tradition”. This has been one of our favorite Vouvrays thusfar, and though it carries no sweetness indicator typical of Vouvray (“sec”, et cetera), it is semi-sweet in style. Wine Spectator routinely scores this wine in the 88-91 points range; our 2006 bottles are noted by James Molesworth as “forward, with juicy quince, ginger and fig notes, followed by a note of lime that keeps the finish honest.”
We also added the 2007 “Amancaya” Malbec / Cabernet Sauvignon blend (50/50) from Bodegas Caro in Mendoza. Bodegas Caro is a joint venture between Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and Nicolas Catena. The Spectator’s Molesworth rated it 90 points and had this to say:
“Concentrated and focused, with alluring cedar and roasted vanilla notes weaving through the dark currant and plum fruit, followed by a nicely structured finish. More like Cabernet than Malbec. Rock-solid.”
Last but not least, we tasted and then added Cold River potato vodka, which is distilled in Maine. This is one of the few vodkas that has converted us to the belief that, yes Virginia, vodka can be a sipping spirit. Wow. Amazing flavor and amazing aroma, perhaps owing to the fact it was only distilled 3 times. While the mass market vodkas are falling all over themselves to brag about endless distillations AND filtrations, this is doubtless also robbing the spirit of any nuances of taste — condemning it to be nothing more than a generic cocktail blending component and lowering our expectations thusly. Thankfully Cold River is not on this bandwagon.
The Beverage Testing Institute has given Cold River an 89 rating (Highly Recommended) and a International Review of Spirits Silver Medal, stating:
“Bright marshmallow, dried cherry and vanilla fudge aromas. A round entry leads to a off dry medium body of white nut fudge, talc, dried cherry, sweetened condensed milk, and white pepper flavors. Finishes with a long, warming, creamy vanilla custard and peppery spice fade. A lot going on here.”
Wine Enthusiast magazine named Cold River the top vodka of 2008 (scoring in the 96-100 “Classic” range), opining:
The lovely, austere and enticing bouquet offers scents of black pepper, charcoal and limestone. Entry is sweet and lightly spiced; at midpalate luscious tastes of caramel corn, charcoal, quartz and cocoa bean make for wonderful North American unflavored vodka drinking. Concludes smooth, complex and layered. A coming superstar.
